AG

AG Restaurant Review:

In The Ritz-Carlton, Atlanta, this busy downtown dining scene, previously Atlanta Grill, has thrown off its former faux New Orleans character and become a steakhouse. A wall of framed black-and-white archival photos addresses the décor in a simple and dignified manner, lending the feel of a fine club to the atmosphere. Meanwhile, on the menu you'll find a Southern classic that’s faithfully rendered: she-crab soup, enriched with cream, crab roe and sherry. Although the celery seed is almost at the edge of too much, the version rewards with a compelling richness and authenticity. Chicken liver pâté is smooth and delectable, with chicken liver flavors uncluttered by any intrusive innovations. There are other options as well, such as the rabbit leg, but steak is featured. Never having seen something called a “deckle,” which staff explained was the top of the rib-eye, we had to taste it. It was judiciously marbled, and we asked for rare and got it that way. Everything old is new again for dessert: order the Baked Alaska. The wine list has substantial depth and explores a wide variety of wine regions, including Santorini for the Domaine Sigalas’ Assyrtiko, a Greek white wine that’s perfect with the she-crab soup.