Allard

Allard Restaurant Review:

In the same way he took over Benoît, Alain Ducasse has acquired this old-fashioned bistro, without changing its setting. Amid lace curtains, plush banquettes, brass fixtures and white tablecloths, the frames on the wall pay homage to André Allard who, with the help of his wife Fernande at the stoves, made this restaurant famous. Thanks to Ducasse, Allard has regained its former luster. Chef Laëtitia Rouabah delivers traditional French courses, with accomplished cooking and care for detail. Baked eggs are enhanced with mushrooms and poultry juice and served with crusty garlic bread; melting beef cheek is prepared like bœuf bourguignon with carrots and brought to the table in a copper pan; and profiteroles consist of homemade puff pastries to drench in thick chocolate. Notable wine labels are proposed by the glass, such as Meursault and Pouilly-Fuissé. Previously maître d’ of Benoît, Eric Bonneau oversees with great care the conscientious waitstaff.