Alma Cocina

Alma Cocina Restaurant Review:

Alma Cocina fills the lobby of one of downtown Atlanta’s skyscrapers. The restaurant has a sort of faux patio and also offers seating in a dimly lit space supervised by the taxidermied head of a long-horned steer. The kitchen occupies territory to the rear of the dining room, and through a wavy amber glass, one can see chefs darting about their chores. As for the Mexican cuisine, anything from an after-work drink and snack to a full meal is doable. Yes, you can pivot back to chips and salsa, but why not be adventurous given this kind of bounty? Try the empanadas filled with huitlacoche (corn truffle) and queso Oaxaca. The crisp pastry bursts with the earthy goodness of the edible fungus, and the duo of hand-held pies nestles along some charred tomato that sports just a little heat. Assorted ceviches, soups and salads, and huaraches (soft corn masa tortillas) all have their own presence. Chicken mole Oaxaca forms a main plate with mashed plantain and crisp green beans. Under the guidance of executive pastry chef Eric Wolitzky, desserts are inspired by classic Mexican dishes, from a tres leches cake with coconut and passion fruit to churros with three sauces. The wine list has many choices from Spain, France and Spanish America. We liked the Henri Bourgeois Rosé of Pinot Noir with this fare. But consider, too, that Alma Cocina is a veritable temple to fine tequilas. Escape rush hour traffic at happy hour, from 4p.m.-6 p.m. weekdays.