Arbella

Arbella Restaurant Review:

A nondescript entry (a vinyl brown door followed by concrete stairs) befits this sumptuous secret in River North. Indeed, this restau-bar is a local’s destination. Sidle up to a long bar in the main room or cozy up in booths sized for small groups of friends or co-workers connecting after office hours. This is no beer-and-shot hangout, however. The food menu is built for flexible social needs and appetites --- think snacks, starters and plates. A prix-fixe option invites guests to sample all three. Try the addictive crispy squash chips, which have hints of barbecue, for the first course, or the hunky empanada stuffed with piping hot chicken shawarma, carrots and onions. Starters encourage sharing, and include taro tuna tacos with just enough heat in their jalapeño aïoli, and chicken bao filled with crispy chickpea chicken, pickled vegetables and tangy Japanese barbecue sauce. A juicy Frenchman burger and tuna poke with plantain chips round out the nontraditional bar lineup. What else is unexpected? The all-about-details cocktails (more than 25) that incorporate touches such as liquid nitrogen, droppers and memorable presentation. The Tempo Bello, with grapefruit-infused gin and sweet vermouth poured in a miniature glass bear, earns a nod for best glassware in the city.