Fog City Awards

Fog City Restaurant Review:

Local professionals throng the bar, open-kitchen-facing counter seats, and communal and private tables at this big-windowed historic haven. Displaying the same courageous intellect that fuels his other restaurants (Bix, Zero Zero, Picco), chef-owner Bruce Hill creates combinations that shock on the menu but work magic on the palate. Crispy quinoa dots deviled eggs like savory jimmies. Jalapeño-infused cucumbers dazzle kampachi crudo. One minute you may think, "Pimento stew with Greek yogurt and oyster mushrooms?" or "Kale salad with persimmon, radish, hazelnuts and buttermilk-goat cheese dressing?" And the next you're savoring the flavors and textures. Everything's too good to hoard; share pickled shrimp, grilled tongue or succulent wood-oven-roasted whole chicken. Plump, smoky roasted shelling beans are a meal unto themselves. Layered with smoked-tomato aïoli, pickles and melting American cheese (all house-made), Hill's burger might be the city's best. Fog City also offers box lunches designed for takeout only. The wine list favors California; among American-style cocktails is the violet-flavored Aviation. Nostalgic sweets from Bix veteran Alex Garay include fluffy made-to-order crullers and frozen custard drizzled with velvety, toasted-marshmallow-like egg yolk caramel.