La Gloria Awards

La Gloria Restaurant Review:

When the pearly gates to La Gloria (The Heavens) first swung open at the Pearl, San Antonians in search of Mexico’s street foods, as interpreted by chef-owner Johnny Hernandez, were forced to wait in an often-long line and order at the counter. Now you’re shown to a table. There’s also an expanded wine list and a padded selection of specialty drinks, including a Paloma with tequila and grapefruit soda and an over-the-top, rum-based “Champereña.” The wait for dishes, such as the timeless tacos of pescado zarandeado, is accordingly more bearable, and while the ceviche “Estilo Nayarit” and the smothered “Torta Ahogada de Carnitas” are rewarding, other regional dishes miss the mark. Tacos alambres have been distinguished by tough beef, and chicken en escabeche seems to have missed the point of its vinegar marinade. The airy structure on the banks of the San Antonio River is refreshingly casual, though, and the shaded outdoor patio is usually very pleasant. Plus, the coconut flan is celestial.