Barbaresco

Barbaresco Restaurant Review:

With all the charm and warmth of a traditional Italian trattoria, compact Barbaresco is a draw for both neighborhood doyennes and Bloomingdale’s shoppers. The maître d’ who greets you could well have stepped out of central casting with his white jacket and friendly demeanor. His recitation of the evening’s specials is polished and knowledgeable. Equally polished is the presentation of the wide variety of pastas, seafood, and the beautifully grilled vegetable antipasto set on a wooden country table. Start with truffled Tuscan pecorino with pears, or mussels steamed in white wine and tomatoes. The branzino baked in salt produces a tender fish and is served filleted with the salt removed, accompanied by a julienne of vegetables. Another option is veal scaloppini with sage, mozzarella and prosciutto. Grilled asparagus is seasoned with just a little salt, practically al dente. Velvety homemade zabaglione is flamed tableside and served warm over sliced strawberries. As for wine, Barbaresco is on offer, as is a selection of bottles from Italy and California. With its unassuming location on a commercial section of Lexington Avenue, the restaurant seems determined to remain the neighborhood’s best-kept secret.