Billy Kwong

Billy Kwong Restaurant Review:

In a brave but highly successful move from its original premises in Surry Hills to Potts Point, Billy Kwong has changed enormously. In a good way. For instance, now you can book a table. Even if you don’t, you may snare a counter seat where you can watch the chefs at work. The old plastic stools have gone and the current venue is moody and artistic. What hasn’t changed is owner-chef Kylie Kwong’s standards. Her food is constantly evolving, but it is still based on seasonal natural foods, local produce (organic when possible) and indigenous foods, too. Expect to be offered fried saltbush cakes, for instance, or even a surprising addition of crickets or some other insect in a dish, one of the chef’s passions. Daily-changing desserts are simple but they don’t disappoint. There are daily specials, so hope that Kwong's signature crispy-skin duck is on the menu. Failing that, go for the steamed spanner crab and prawn dumplings, or red-braised caramelized wallaby tail (a spin on the oxtail dish she used to make). The wine list is short and affordable with some unusual inclusions and an emphasis on organic or biodynamic drops. Come on a Sunday and you can enjoy relaxed all-day dining from noon, either with a reservation, or simply “walk in.”