BoccaLupo

BoccaLupo Restaurant Review:

At his Inman Park restaurant, Bruce Logue's personal approach to Italian cuisine, especially pasta, takes on international dimensions. The casual, modern, sparely decorated space seems suitable to his cooking. Antipasti offer the Iowa prosciutto he, and we, favor, but we also like the calamari, small tender rings in a tomato brodo with fat caper berries, and the banh mi-topped bruschetta. Logue's focus now is on pasta, from baked (lasagna) to fresh (20-yolk tagliatelle with wild mushrooms and Tuscan kale kimchi) to extruded, for which he bought a special machine from Italy (the black spaghetti with hot Calabrese sausage, red shrimp and scallions is a holdover from his former establishment, La Pietra Cucina). In the latter category, he delves into ramen, presenting the noodles in a collard greens/pork brodo, with a momofuku egg and hot peanuts. The heat level may be too much for some palates, however. Southern touches are everywhere; griddled ramps (a wild garlic) and smoked brisket play nice with Southern fried chicken “Parm” among baked pasta dishes, while pappardelle goes classic Italian with a Bolognese sauce (or “gravy”). Check out the four-course tasting menu. Desserts are Italian in spirit if not in details, such as a sexy soft cream cheese panna cotta with huckleberry jelly and squid ink cookie crumbs. The wine list showcases American, French and Italian labels chiefly, and Logue has assembled a smart selection of beers as well. Note: Pooch patrons may accompany owners on the front patio, but it's only available for drinks service, not food.