Casa Romero

Casa Romero Restaurant Review:

Half a block and a mile of pretentiousness away from Newbury Street, Casa Romero emanates the aura of a supper club in Mexico City. Talavera tiles and potted flowers make for a room that is at once exuberant and elegant; seats in the shady courtyard are a summertime treat. For nearly 40 years, chef-owner Leo Romero has overseen a small and focused menu of traditional Mexican specialties that is a far cry from the cookie-cutter fare being reheated elsewhere. Pair an original Tequila Sunrise with some freshly made guacamole. Salads are across-the-board winners --- just witness the sweet-sour crunch of chayote, jícama and orange; fleshy, elusive-flavored cactus sliced with tomato; or the daily ceviche. Light, fresh seafood dishes like Baja-style fish tacos fare well, too. At times, we crave a jalapeño or two in place of the milder chilies the chef favors (like the chile relleno with chipotle sauce), but the atmosphere is so pleasant --- and the wines so reasonable --- we soon relax and go with the flow. Finish with a sampling of authentic caramel flan.