Cascabel

Cascabel Restaurant Review:

Alex Eusebio was born in Madrid, grew up in the Dominican Republic and spent his formative restaurant years in New York, before earning attention on Season 5 of “Top Chef.” His televised efforts helped propel him to Sweetsalt, a sandwich shop near major studios in Toluca Lake. In 2014, he launched Cascabel, an oasis-like restaurant with skylights, exposed wood beams and a menacing rattlesnake mural. A full bar, where tequila and cocktails flow like water, gives way to a back patio with a trickling fountain and strings of lights. Eusebio’s menu is ostensibly Mexican, but he takes liberties with tradition. For instance, guacamole is available with either smoked bacon or charred pineapple. House-made corn tortillas might host fried chicken, duck confit or Brussels sprouts. Hard-shell tacos, which are often the ridicule of taco purists, work well when loaded with lobster, tomato, crème fraîche and caviar. Silky yellowtail tiradito is dressed with tequila, grapefruit jus, hearts of palm, guacamole and pickled jalapeño. A juicy short rib brick falls apart in tender shreds and arrives on well-spiced mole negro with chipotle-lime black beans, zucchini, sweet potato and pepitas. Cascabel’s standout dessert is a flan trio, which comes topped with pepita crumble.