Chez Michel

Chez Michel Restaurant Review:

Scion of a family of restaurateurs, Thierry Breton was just doing what came naturally when he decided to become a chef. Just as naturally, his preference is for country cooking such as Breton cuisine, the backbone of his single-price menu (€35), which draws gourmets from all over Paris. It features a daring andouille terrine with buckwheat crêpes, kig ha farz (an Armorican boiled dinner of hog jowls and country-cured bacon), and buttery rich kouign-amann cake. But that's not all. The young chef also knows how to leave his native coasts to realize and do justice to inspired plates like thickly-cut tuna steak with caviar and eggplant and seasonal game. He's even unearthed a cheap and cheerful Breton vin de pays to wash these good things down. Or try some of the buckwheat or oat beer for a change.