China Pie

China Pie Restaurant Review:

Chef Vuong Loc earned Seattle’s trust at the long-running kitchen at Portage and then from his French/New-American spot, Pomerol. So perhaps only half an eyebrow was raised when he announced his new joint would be a Chinese pizza place. What does it even mean? Sit down in the sparse, modern room and dig into a plain cheese pie and you might think you’re in any pizzeria. But choose chicken pho soup dumplings, salt and pepper blue Hubbard squash or the confit chicken wings with fish sauce and enter Loc’s world of fusion. Pizza toppings include classics like pepperoni, but also caramel fish sauce with pork, foie gras with hoisin or salami with chili oil. The hit of the dessert menu shows equal creativity: house-made push-pops in flavors like blood orange. The wine list tours the Old World looking for a bit of minerality and the refreshing element that matches both pizza and Chinese cuisine. Four local drafts complement a short bottle list. But the focus of the bar is on the ginger-studded cocktail selections.