The Cookhouse

The Cookhouse Restaurant Review:

The fried oyster and bacon po ’boy that made its first appearance in San Antonio at chef Pieter Sypesteyn’s “Where Y’At” food truck has now found a firmer foundation just off N. St. Mary’s St., where it helps anchor a lunch menu that more or less mirrors that of the truck. (The truck can still be found most often at the Alamo Street Eat Bar.) At The Cookhouse, all gussied up in coral paint and bare bulbs, you still have to order at a counter at lunchtime, but the wait for your food is far more pleasant than before. As good as that oyster/bacon combo is, however, we almost prefer the fried chicken liver version, especially when matched to a crock of steaming gumbo. Without being stuffy, service is much more formal at dinnertime when the menu expands to include unexpected gems such as the nicely balanced chicken Pontalba with cubed potato, ham, mushrooms and a blushing sauce Choron, a béarnaise variation with tomato. Roasted duck and dumplings and blackened drum are other options, any of which might be happily preceded by crunchy boudin balls or luxurious broiled oysters, and successfully accompanied by a wine from the succinct, well-calibrated list.