The Dearborn

The Dearborn Restaurant Review:

About the restaurant: Clodagh and Amy Lawless, siblings of restaurateur Billy Lawless Jr. (The Gage, The Dawson), claim their own piece of the Chicago restaurant scene with this Block 37 mainstay. The crowd is a mix of theater-goers and post-work drinkers and diners in the mood for solid American tavern fare. Look for historical touches and handsome finishes, from street car murals to subway tile to tufted booths and chairs and zigzag wood floors.

Likes: Proximity to Theater District and generous, well-timed service.
Dislikes: None.

Food & Drinks: In the center of Loop action next to the Dearborn blue line stop, The Dearborn caters to the professional seeking to wine and dine a client, a family walking over from their hotel, and a couple catching a theater production. That said, the menu by executive chef Aaron Cuschieri reflects a big city, approachable vein. A Midwest fried chicken is a house signature, yet lighter apps leave their memorable marks; try the assorted oysters and the ceviche, a bright, kicky marriage of fennel-, cilantro- and lime-dressed octopus and shrimp. A little gem wedge salad is dainty in size but flavor-rich thanks to bacon, blue cheese crumbles and chive-buttermilk dressing. Mains strike mom's comfort food, especially the braised short rib with horseradish mashed potatoes and wilted spinach. Desserts keep anticipation alive to the end; it's hard to say no to a "Strawberry Churros Forever," with fresh strawberry salad and ice cream. Wine hails from all corners. Sip the standout Graham Beck Brut Rosé Cap Classique, dry, yet not overly sweet.