Fairview

Fairview Restaurant Review:

The Washington Duke Inn’s posh dining room overlooks a golf course, and Fairview imparts an image of old-money opulence that belies its late 20th-century pedigree. Longtime chef Jason Cunningham’s seasonally changing menu is consistently well-executed and often draws on local sources. Weekend brunch offers such temptations as Chesapeake-style crab cakes with herbed polenta and wild mushroom omelets. At dinner, first course options range from the restaurant’s signature corn, bacon and shrimp chowder to shrimp cocktail with Cajun rémoulade sauce. Mains continue the extravagance with rack of wild boar accompanied by white bean cassoulet, pecan-encrusted Carolina grouper with crispy okra and smoked tomato broth, and grilled Angus steaks rubbed with house-blended spices and served with a choice of béarnaise or Cabernet reduction sauces. Desserts have suggested wine pairings and include such finishes as quince and apple strudel with crème fraîche ice cream and port syrup. The wine list shows good variety and some depth, especially in white and red Burgundies and vintage Champagnes, accompanied by verticals of fine California wines as well as Italian and Spanish selections. Solo diners will enjoy the generous half bottle options and the more than 20 by-the-glass choices. Dessert wines include portos and other fortified wines, plus late harvest and ice wines.