The Federal Grill

The Federal Grill Restaurant Review:

Matt Brice’s The Federal Grill is housed in an old pool hall with exposed brick, wood beams, an open kitchen and a comfortable bar. The Washington Heights-area space was renovated originally for Branch Water Tavern, and Brice’s venture, which moved in during spring 2013, maintained a lot of the charm and even some of the menu items, like the duck fat popcorn. But there are other starters worth sampling, too, such as the barbecue bone marrow. There’s also a classic iceberg wedge with crispy prosciutto instead of bacon. Entrées include steaks and chops --- we like the smoked pork chop over pimento cheese polenta --- and fish dishes, perhaps bacon-wrapped Gulf shrimp and an almond-crusted red snapper. Saturday and Sunday brunch plates range from Texas-style biscuits and gravy with venison sausage to crab cakes and a smooth duck liver mousse with onion jam. The full bar has a nice selection of bourbons and craft beers.