Folk's Folly

Folk's Folly Restaurant Review:

The dining room in this classic Memphis steakhouse is accented with dark wood furnishings and heavy padded chairs, lending it a classy, retro vibe. The milieu is romantic, with private alcoves for dining couples, and appropriate for sealing the next business deal. Longtime staffers know their regulars by name and welcome newbies with open arms. Steaks range from an eight-ounce filet mignon to a 28-ounce porterhouse. Alternatively, seafood options abound, and heart-healthy and vegetarian dishes may be created upon request. Vegetable sides tend toward 1950s-inspired classics such as asparagus with hollandaise sauce and spinach casserole. And, of course, meat-and-potatoes diners can order spuds prepared in myriad ways, au gratin, shoestring-style or twice-baked, for instance. End the meal with Folk’s Folly’s signature hot fudge brownie. Decent by-the-glass and half-bottle choices inhabit the 250-plus-label wine cellar. Most wines are American, and some of the more important categories, such as Champagne and sparkling wine, show some fairly ordinary selections.