Fourth and Olive

Fourth and Olive Restaurant Review:

Initially, this Long Beach eatery of exposed brick and wooden ceiling beams looks like your typical modern neighborhood restaurant. Yet the well-mannered service dog that trots through the space signals its uniqueness. The pooch belongs to restaurateur Dan Tapia, a disabled veteran who opened the place to help fellow vets. It’s a goal that’s beyond noble; half of Tapia’s staff are wounded warriors. Chef/co-owner Alex McGroarty matches this mission by bringing the intriguing flavors of Alsatian cuisine to the masses. His hands-on approach includes the on-premise butchering and making everything he can in-house. His homespun commitment is evident in classically prepared starters like the bacon and leek tarte flambée and the marinated mackerel on toast with minutina greens. For mains, we recommend the flavorful, refreshingly nimble pork chop with roasted apple and fennel, perhaps paired with a glass of European wine or craft beer. Those looking to explore Alsace may consider digging into the choucroute garnie, and items like steak frites are offered for those that want to keep things conservative. The white wine-infused ice soufflé is a must for dessert. Sandwiches and handmade sausages dominate the lunch menu, while weekend early risers can stop in for an easy brunch.