Friday Saturday Sunday

Friday Saturday Sunday Restaurant Review:

About the restaurant & décor: Friday Saturday Sunday was one of Philadelphia’s longest-running restaurants dating back to the hippie era, but since Jose Garces alumnus Chad Williams and Hanna Williams took over the Fitler Square area space, only the name stays the same. A staircase bisects the building into a chicly Art Nouveau-inspired street level bar and an upper dining room. Upstairs, the décor --- pastoral wall murals and wooden tables --- is rather unremarkable and the sparseness does little to absorb the din or distract from the rushing pass of service staff. All is forgiven, however, when the food arrives.

Likes: mussel toast; strip steak; house-made ice creams.
Dislikes: noise level; décor.

Food & Drinks: The shared-plate meal begins with a “lavash,” spiced tissue-thin crackers with homemade butter. The emphasis on seafood means the first course could be a raw bar plateau or luscious mussel toasts with garlic aïoli and onion confit. Next may be a homemade corn agnolotti or the larger dishes such as strip steak plated as marbleized monuments over a smoked potato purée, or the halibut presented with rose-like petals of Brussels sprouts, a delicate coconut milk broth and a creamy smear of sweet potato. Desserts are as transcendent as the preceding courses, made with equal care and innovation: a plum tarte Tatin, for instance, is complemented by yuzu curd and rich white miso ice cream. On the beverages side, house cocktails delight --- try the False Prophet, marrying mezcal, Buddha’s Hand juice and cider. The mostly Euro wine list is tailored but includes some surprising selections from Israel and Turkey.