Gary's on Spring

Gary's on Spring Restaurant Review:

Gary’s on Spring bills itself as a purveyor of “contemporary American cuisine,” a description that would have been perfectly true during the 1950s. Menu staples include oysters Rockefeller, lobster bisque, Caesar salad, beef filet with green peppercorn and brandy sauce, and mint-scented grilled lamb chops. These are, in fact, chef Harold Baker’s most successful dishes. He gets a little carried away with his “updates” such as the Earth-Wind & Sea ---chicken and lobster encased in a prime filet --- or the Parmesan flour-coated chicken scaloppini with blueberry reduction. Pastry chef Khendra Taylor is more consistent, from her airy crème brûlée to flourless dark chocolate cake with caramel sauce, which should be paired with an after-dinner bourbon. The bourbon list is extensive, while the wine list focuses on a gathering of familiar labels, many from California. But here and there are some intriguing choices from elsewhere, such as Oregon and South Africa. Service in the dining room, decorated in relaxing beige and black hues, is just the right balance of pleasant and efficient. Be sure to take advantage of the patio overlooking tree-lined Beargrass Creek when the season is right.