Gioia Pizzeria

Gioia Pizzeria Restaurant Review:

With its tiny counter and touch of attitude, this gourmet pizza joint on Hopkins Street serves thin-crust pies and slices to throngs of locals. Unfortunately, better-than-average pizzas come at the expense of lackluster service, and quality has taken a dip in recent years, but nobody seems to mind. It's cozier to take your purchases home or to a nearby park, but school kids and families favor benches out front to enjoy large, foldable, New York-style slices of formaggio or seasonal varieties such as asparagus or butternut squash with Gorgonzola. Eight rotating versions of full-size pies (no changes or substitutions, please) feature local, sustainable and organic vegetables, cheeses and meats. Call ahead for takeout; no delivery. For a more sophisticated, sit-down Gioia experience, visit the 2240 Polk St. restaurant in San Francisco, 415-359-0971.