Grand Champion BBQ

Grand Champion BBQ Restaurant Review:

Robert Owens, who grew up in the Atlanta area, and Gregory Vivier, who trained in France and Switzerland, joined forces to cook the noble hog. This Roswell location, central command, is housed in a historic brick building that exhibits a lot more polish than most barbecue joints. Still, although spiffy, the place is casual and very comfortable. We sampled a range of meats, including the singularly meaty baby-back ribs, pulled pork with lots of good bark, and brisket, which we found a mite dry, probably because our portion was not cut from the fat end, which typically yields a more delectable morsel. Two sauces reflect vinegar-pepper North Carolina tradition and tomato-based sweeter classic Georgia heritage. First-rate sides range from a wicked creamy mac 'n' cheese using rigatoni to Brunswick stew with tomatoes, corn and meat and plenty of seasoning. The full-flavored collard greens were some of the best we've tasted anywhere. Banana pudding is the one and only dessert. Beers are largely local craft suds and the wines complement the 'cue and are served at cool temperatures in decent glasses. Also located at 4401 Shallowford Rd., Ste. 168, Roswell, 770-587-4227; 12635 Crabapple Rd., Ste. 210, Milton, 770-993-4227.