Han Dynasty

Han Dynasty Restaurant Review:

Offering the most convincing Szechuan cooking that the majority of Philadelphians have ever tasted, Han Chiang’s suburban strip-mall startup has expanded to a regional empire. The Old City flagship location, set in a dramatic former bank building with soaring ceilings and Corinthian columns, is the largest in the area. It also boasts a full bar, with a decent selection of craft beers and a serviceable wine list. Drink options are a bonus because potent, orange chili oil is omnipresent, dousing rabbit with peanuts, dumplings and crisp cucumber spears. Creamy dan dan noodles, flecked with peanuts, pork and chili pepper, are a revelation for the uninitiated, while dry pot fish and cumin lamb deliver zingy bursts of flavor. A $20-per-person tasting menu for groups of eight or more can open your eyes (and sinuses) still further at the chef’s daily discretion. Timid eaters can stay out of the fiery zone with scallion pancakes, wonton soup and stir-fried pork in oyster sauce --- just know that your server may give you the side-eye. Locations in Manayunk, Cherry Hill, University City, Exton, Royersford and New York City.