Helen's

Helen's Restaurant Review:

Every town has its institution, and Helen's is surely one of Richmond's. An old-time landmark in The Fan --- it's been on the scene for many decades and was once a bar (which it still is exclusively on Sunday and Monday nights) --- Helen's is one of those neighborhood places that welcomes casual patrons (and, per the owners, an occasional ghost). But it also has a kitchen that prides itself on inventive dishes that change every so often. The chef may offer a starter of pork belly and sweet potato croquettes or salad with delicate young springtime asparagus paired with prosciutto and artichoke and topped with a Parmesan crisp. Hearty entrées have included cider-braised pork shank with three-cheese grits, roasted Brussels sprouts, hazelnuts, cider jus and julienne apple salad. Even the namesake burger is distinguished by sharp cheddar, bacon and green tomato relish sided by herb butter fries. As times have changed, more vegetarian options have become available, and there’s even been orecchiette with vegan sausage, tricked out with broccoli rabe, artichoke hearts, roma tomatoes and pangritata (breadcrumbs toasted in garlic and oil to simulate Parmesan). Desserts might range from chocolate mousse or a pineapple upside-down cake with pineapple-rum caramel to a s’mores parfait.