Kyma

Kyma Restaurant Review:

In a tribute to the owning family’s heritage, a wall of broken plates, a blue-and-white color scheme, and a ceiling of twinkling stars set the stage. Savannah-born and -reared owner Pano Karatassos founded Kyma as a paean to his immigrant parents’ native land. Son Pano Jr. serves as its executive chef. We like to dine on the small plates, the eggplant stew, the simmered giant fava-like beans, the grilled octopus with red onion and a vinaigrette, the roasted oysters under a frothy Champagne avgolemono and a touch of osetra caviar, and the rich veal sweetbreads. While steaks, lamb and chicken are options, we're here for the fish and seafood. Selections include lavraki (branzino or sea bass) among those sea dwellers flown in from Greece, while other pristine fresh fish hails from other sources. Although expensive, a whole fish serves two people with vegetable sides. Olive oil-poached halibut is a special dish, but it should be cooked a mite less than ours was. For dessert, myriad traditional choices include a goat cheese pie with house-made ice cream. Adventurous oenophiles revel in the Greek wines but the Santorini rocks, especially with the fish. On Sundays the wines are half price by the bottle. The kids' menu is one of the most sophisticated anywhere, giving youngsters a real taste of a new culture and cuisine.