L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele

L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele Restaurant Review:

About the restaurant: Some people swear that the famed Naples pizzeria L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele serves the best pizza in the world – but Angelenos don’t have to fly to Italy to find out, because restaurateur Francesco Zimone and fellow Neapolitan chef Michele Rubini have opened the first U.S. location in Hollywood. Like in the original Naples eatery (which dates back to 1870), there’s ethereal wood-fired pizza on offer.

The décor: The revamped Café des Artistes space retains its former romantic hideaway charm with updated front and back patios framed in brick, tile, stone and shady trees. Indoors is a place to lounge and sip Prosecco in a stylish, airy California bungalow on cocoa leather couches or at the long, sleek white bar. But the real action is on the buzzy back patio, a courtyard flanked by a brick fireplace and dramatic glass-walled pizza kitchen. It’s a gorgeous Hollywood crowd, and it knows it. Reservations are a must. And while Julia Roberts made the Naples L’Antica restaurant famous in Eat Pray Love, you’re far more likely to catch a glimpse of her at this one.

Likes: Pizza as good as the hype; a nice Italian wine list that won’t break the bank; a beautiful courtyard patio that makes you want to linger.
Dislikes: The mains; the parking; the tough rez.

Food & Drinks: It’s all about the pizza. Really. The menu does due diligence to Italian classics, but the ricotta-stuffed zucchini blossoms can arrive small and over-fried, while linguine with clams, white wine and bottarga is simply pedestrian. There is a NY steak or grilled pork chop if you need to pad your expense account. But, if not, the pizza is destination-worthy in and of itself, and a pretty fine approximation of the Naples original (we’ve been there, too). Rubini nails the thin, chewy crust, just nicely charred in the wood-fired oven. The margherita’s fior di latte and pecorino cheeses top the pie in perfect proportion with a sprinkle of basil, while flavorful tomato sauce paired with garlic makes a quality marinara; savory montanara is fried and baked with smoked mozzarella, or go luxe with black truffle shavings. Pies are generous – two people can easily share one. The Italian wine list gets it right, offering a pleasant Vermentino from Corsica, a sturdy Tuscan rosé, or a more serious Brunello or Barbaresco. Together, the pizza, wine and ambience add up to make one of the most pleasurable Hollywood dining experiences around. Until Mt. Vesuvius erupts again it may not be the best pizza in the world, but it just might be the best in LA.