Le Bilboquet

Le Bilboquet Restaurant Review:

Classic bistro preparations that one associates with French comfort fare get pomp-and-circumstance treatment at Le Bilboquet. Settle in at a table or banquette indoors or opt for sidewalk seating at this art-filled spot. Lunch could be an endive salad and steamed mussels with fries, although a croque monsieur and croque madame are straight out of the traditional canon. At either lunch or dinner, the mushroom risotto appetizer could make a light meal with a salad. The rice is precooked but still manages a measure of al dente resistance to the bite, and mushrooms add their measure of earthy aromatics even though only a few grace the surface. For dinner, consider boeuf bourguignon or bouillabaisse, a medley of fresh fish and shellfish in a light, aromatic broth with the requisite rouille-topped slice of baguette. Cajun chicken is viewed as the signature dish, but duck and veal plates seem more in keeping with French cuisine. Desserts range from crème brûlée to chocolate mousse, and a tarte Tatin that is more of a stew of apples surmounting a crust. The wine list offers many high-end selections, especially Bordeaux, which hit substantial three figures. However, there are a few good values, such as a $42 Muscadet that pairs well with seafood.