Le Bouchon

Le Bouchon Restaurant Review:

Jean-Claude Poilevey's little wood-trimmed dining room sets the standard for competently prepared bistro classics at the kind of prices you'd be overjoyed to find anywhere --- including in Paris. Garlicky snails in parsley butter, robust onion soup and salad Lyonnaise (with lardons, croutons and a poached egg) all are on hand, along with vegetarian quiche, steak frites, fish and, sometimes, kidneys in mustard sauce. Regional French wines are as affordable as the food. The marquise au chocolat makes a fine dessert, as does most anything with fruit. Well-meaning service sags at peak periods, when customers waiting for tables (even with reservations) crowd the pint-size bar in back and line up out the door. In other words, dine early or late, and avoid Saturday nights.