Little Nonna's

Little Nonna's Restaurant Review:

Little Nonna's, a paean to Philadelphia's traditional "red-gravy" Italian restaurants, is from prolific partners chef Marcie Turney and Valerie Safran (Barbuzzo, Lolita, Jamonera). The noisy and convivial storefront conjures up a party at grandma's "house"; it’s stocked with rustic wooden tables, gold-framed mirrors and shelves bursting with retro serving pieces and bric-a-brac. There's also a secluded back patio for seasonal dining. The open kitchen turns out reliable versions of Italian-American classics. Meatballs --- whether as an appetizer or paired with spaghetti --- are the next best thing to mamma's, while traditional mussels in red sauce get their kick from Calabrian sausage. Simpler pasta dishes such as chitarra with crab and bread crumbs work best. The wine list includes eleven vintages offered at $10 a glass or $40 a bottle. House-bottled cocktails, including a Mulberry Street Sazerac that substitutes a Strega wash for the usual absinthe, present a powerful way to get the festivities going. No visit to Little Nonna's would be complete without dessert. Choices include a satisfying apple crostada made savory with vanilla-thyme ice cream; tiramisu; and homemade water ice in flavors like lemon basil.