Little Tong Noodle Shop

Little Tong Noodle Shop Restaurant Review:

About the restaurant: Chef Simone Tong (wd-50, Alder) brings a welcome change in cuisine to New York City with her mixian (rice noodles) from the province of Yunnan. The restaurant is an unadorned sliver of a space which formerly housed a schnitzel spot.

Likes: The spicy taste combinations are truly exciting.
Dislikes: No reservations means that waits are guaranteed, although turnover is fairly quick.

About the food and drinks: Spicy, salty and sour in a subtle way, Little Tong Noodle Shop’s rice noodles taunt you to tame their fire as you slurp. Noodles are set in a less-fiery broth which helps mitigate the heat. Pick a couple of the six mixians to share, each topped with multi-ingredient permutations of fermented vegetables, edible flowers and spicy oils. Grandma chicken mixian is chicken confit in a chicken broth with a tea egg, pickled beets, cauliflower, and sesame and garlic oils. You can “customize” your own mixian by choosing from the menu of “little extras,” with the likes of pork wonton, dan dan pork and various chili-based add-ons. Ghost chicken is highly recommended to start, hand-pulled and skinless, mixed with a dressing of mayonnaise, onions, chili and cilantro. For dessert, order the milk tea crème brûlée. A small selection of saké, Champagne, cider, beer and wine is offered. Service is included in the price. Also located at 235 E. 53rd St., New York, 929-383-0465.