Livebait

Livebait Restaurant Review:

Livebait was the first to blow a huge hole in the theory that fish restaurants had to be either a) redolent with the fug of old chip fat, or b) stuck in a 1970s time warp. Although there have been a lot of changes since the original Livebait opened in Waterloo's The Cut---being bought by Groupe Chez Gérard, for one, and the departure of talented, idiosyncratic chef Theodore Kyriakou to the Real Greek, for another---it still delivers good fish cooking. Main courses have lost the unusual ingredients and spicing that was Kyriakou's trademark. Pan-roasted sea bass fillet and char-grilled swordfish loin with colcannon mash and red onion marmalade provide plenty of interest. The green-and-white tiled walls and simple seating are cheerful and casual; professional service generally keeps up with the quick pace. Set meals noon-7pm, 1 course £9.95, 2 courses £12.95, 3 courses £15.95, plus £1.95 cover charge for bread. Kids’ menu £6.95. Also at Waterloo, 41-45 The Cut, SE1, 020-7928 7211.