Mandina's

Mandina's Restaurant Review:

The first thing you see when you enter Mandina's is the bar, generally packed with customers and those waiting for a table in the two dining rooms. Since the Great Depression, Mandina's has been serving its brand of Creole Italian cooking in mid-city. As always, the building is bright pink, and neon still trims the awning. But the food standards seem to have risen in the last few years, although tomato sauce and frying oil remain the staples, along with enough seasonings to put a blush on your cheek. The turtle soup au sherry is definitive. Broiled trout is a top seller, and especially winning is trout amandine meunière. Spaghetti with meatballs and Italian-sausage po' boy sandwiches point to the Mandina family's roots. Dine just like the locals and show up for Sunday dinner, choosing from fried chicken, soft-shell crab almandine, stuffed shrimp or any number of other specials. On Thursdays, explore the bruccialone (veal rolled with spinach, egg and seasonings). And remember these two words once they clear your entrée: Milkyway pie. The short wine list, about 20 labels, focuses on California options with a few Italian selections, and all are offered by the glass. Ports are available for after dinner.