Bell Book & Candle Menu

Bell Book & Candle Restaurant Review:

This West Village restaurant set in a subterranean space that was formerly a Laundromat made news when it opened because it uses the building’s rooftop as a hydroponic garden, culling as much as eighty percent of its produce from this lofty spot. But can this extreme locavore gimmick give Bell Book & Candle an edge? Not really. The lovely, low-lit, exposed-brick space is an eye-pleasing venue, but the offerings from the kitchen fell flat more often than not. Orders of donut-size greasy onion rings and flavor-muted sardines were forgettable. Caramelized Brussels sprouts, aided by thick chunks of bacon, however, hit the spot. So did the lobster taco, rolled like a mini burrito and filled with the silky crustacean. The wine list spans the globe with a few affordable bottles in the $30s (though the by-the-glass selections are too pricey).