Spartico Menu

Spartico Restaurant Review:

Shortly after the last remaining eatery in Jonathan Eismann's Design District mini-empire, Pizza Volante, folded, the local star was announced as consulting chef for the pizza part of this casual/chic Italian place. But the key word is "consulting," meaning not actually cooking in the kitchen. Indeed Eismann-designed wood-oven pizzas, ultra-thin-crusted as in Rome, are the standouts on a menu of all the usual American-Italian restaurant standards, ranging from "Tuscan" steak (anointed with olive oil, but a New York sirloin rather than traditional T-bone) to tiramisu. Unfortunately, though, the pies are wildly inconsistent. Crusts are sometimes beautifully blistered, crunchy outside and tangy/chewy inside; but often, they are either overcooked or undercooked. Additionally, basic toppings --- especially first-rate local mozzarella --- are often too sparse. For pizza aficionados, Spartico's pies are affordable enough to chance several tries. Just keep your fingers crossed.