Navy

Navy Restaurant Review:

As its name might suggest, Navy is seafood-focused, and it does the oceans proud with smartly prepared dishes; there are a few nods to the turf, too. The restaurant is dim at night --- your cell phone might be needed to read the menu --- and the noise level can be insufferable at times. Offerings change regularly based on what’s in season (or what’s been caught) and they are scribbled down on a piece of paper. You might find a delectable uni butter toast or calf’s liver paired with bacon on toast to start. Larger dishes include crispy gnocchi with ramps and, the restaurant’s gem, the Paul Bocuse-inspired trout en croûte, a whole fish wrapped entirely in crispy bread --- it’s worth ordering if available. The wine list is short and sweet (and sometimes dry) and affordable. Expect a long list of signature cocktails as well.