Osteria Mozza

Osteria Mozza Restaurant Review:

From Pizzeria Mozza's Nancy Silverton and Joseph Bastianich comes this larger, more upscale spot right next door, on the corner of Melrose and Highland Avenues. (Also nearby are sister establishments Mozza 2 Go and meat-centric chi SPACCA.) The grey and black toned décor creates a New York atmosphere, even if some patrons wear shorts and hide their identities under baseball caps --- an outfit you’d rarely find in the Big Apple. The action here splits between the mozzarella bar and the amaro bar, the former offering a half-page of dishes composed of variations of the soft white cheese (mozzarella, burrata, fiore de latte), the latter enhanced by a collection of illuminated bottles. Have your mozzarella seasoned with basil, caperberry relish and salsa romesco or accompanied by a variety of ingredients such as braised artichokes, bacon or peas. Antipasti options include grilled octopus and crispy pigs' trotters. Continue in the Italian vein with around a dozen pasta choices, or sample deep-fried whole branzino, lamb chops, crispy duck leg or grilled beef tagliata. Desserts are simple: torta della nonna, rosemary olive oil cakes with olive oil gelato, and bombolini with huckleberry compote and lemon mascarpone. The all-Italian wine list provides a wide array of selections from many regions and in many styles.