THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Palate Food + Wine

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Palate Food + Wine Restaurant Review:

Octavio Becerra, who co-founded the Patina Group, has emerged from Joachim Splichal’s shadow with Palate Food + Wine, a combination bistro, wine bar and wine shop in Glendale. The restaurant is situated on the ground floor of a respected wine storage facility, in the midst of a row of auto dealers. The airy space features soaring ceilings, an exhibition kitchen and towering goblets of faux grapes. Becerra’s menu of primarily small plates---one of the most compelling on the Eastside---changes regularly due to his longstanding relationships with local farmers. The “porkfolio” showcases various La Quercia meats and three mustards, while potted rillettes-like meats or fish, served in mason jars, are perfect for slathering on crostini. Nicely cooked, crispy-skinned salmon gets a simple treatment of Meyer lemon salsa, while a substantial slab of caramelized pork belly might be enhanced with tangerines and dates. Gnocchi are pan-seared in brown butter sauce, and laced with nettles and Parmesan, and grilled hanger steak might be paired with a velvety green garlic flan. A powerhouse wine list offers an international selection and prices suiting any budget (the French section alone ranges from celebrated Burgundies to modest, undiscovered wines from Languedoc). Every bottle on the list is available for purchase, and wine director Steve Goldun is generous with assistance. Palate emphasizes its cheese selection, filled with intriguing, hard-to-find varieties, but the dessert menu is brief. The often-presented bittersweet chocolate pudding, less dense than a pot de crème, is enlivened with a nice sea salt.