Upscale and inventive American cuisine with edge in Gowanus.
The Pines Restaurant Review:
Like many things in Brooklyn, this place doesn't want to look like it's trying too hard, but the proof is in the pudding, so to speak. The food looks simple but is deceptively complex and very good. Everything has been considered. The wine list is thoughtfully curated, but the cocktails more so. Ingredients include the likes of sea buckthorn, yuzu and hyssop, but they're all well balanced. Bread is a must, served in huge chunks for ripping apart with your hands. Foie gras peanut butter and jelly and squid with romesco are ideal starters. Cavatelli with miso and mussels is an umami-rich mid-course. We also recommend the Wagyu steak, which cuts with the side of a fork. Desserts are equally inventive; celery granita and house-made gelati star.
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