Providence

Providence Restaurant Review:

About the restaurant and décor: Chef Michael Cimarusti, who co-owns Providence with Donato Poto, continues to maintain the reputation of this fine-dining destination while developing other projects in Los Angeles. (These include the popular seafood "shack" Connie and Ted's in West Hollywood and Il Pesce Cucina at LA’s Eataly.) The décor, devised by interior design studio House of Honey, is a luxurious embodiment of the seafood theme, with barnacles on the wall, netting-like fixtures suspended from the ceiling, and dusky pink and dark blue ombre panels reminiscent of the sky at twilight. Additional seating options include the bar and two private dining rooms, as well as the chef's table in the kitchen.

About the food: An à la carte menu, as well as a four-course tasting menu ($95, $155 with wine pairing), is available during Friday lunch. For dinner, choose from the Chef's Tasting Menu ($240, $360 with wine pairing), the Signature & Seasonal Tasting Menu ($185, $285 with wine pairings) or the Providence Tasting Menu ($135, $195 with wine pairing). When chef Cimarusti is away, chef de cuisine Tristan Aitchison is tasked with the important role of upholding the superior standard of seafood that has been established over the years. A variety of amuses-bouche precede dishes like bigeye tuna with apple, shiso and lime. Scrambled eggs with uni and a tableside presentation of salt-roasted Santa Barbara spot prawns have made appearances, too. Among the later courses might be vermilion rockfish, soupe de poisson, Jimmy Nardello chile peppers and cannellini or A5 Wagyu with charred kamo eggplant and nori. Desserts have featured combinations like apple with ginger, pichuberry and crème fraîche.

About the drinks: The wine list highlights French and domestic offerings. The pairings open one's eyes, and the creative cocktails are worth considering as well. Bar director Kim Stodel has developed a menu of “zero-waste” cocktails (and mocktails), giving new life to the kitchen’s leftover seasonal produce by using them in infusions and garnishes. Service remains a high priority and contributes to Providence's status as a premium gourmet dining experience in Los Angeles.