Seven Hills

Seven Hills Restaurant Review:

Locals line up awaiting Italian-inspired small dishes and dinners at this family-run, farm-to-table neighborhood jewel with wooden tables and sea-glass chandeliers that set its ambience precisely on the tender borderline between homey and luxurious. Executive chef Anthony Florian, formerly of Quince, puts heart and soul and much thought into signature dishes such as caper-studded beef carpaccio and ravioli uovo, a wonder of nature and physics that spurts yolk with every slice. Using products from such purveyors as County Line Farms, Devil's Gulch Ranch meats and Marin Roots Farm in seasonally shifting menus, Florian displays a unique gift for crafting as much as possible from scratch and making every ingredient shine. Fresh carrots in the agnolotti dough render earthy-sweet and preternaturally vivid pasta. Wild mushrooms vie validly for your attention with the Piedmontese flat-iron steak. A sturdy wine list favors Italy and California, with an unusually broad span of sweet wines for dessert. Speaking of which, TCHO chocolate makes Seven Hills' "moka" budino not just luscious but also local.