Sobrinos

Sobrinos Restaurant Review:

Literally a sobrino (nephew) to Primos in the Condesa, Sobrinos recaptures the former’s buzzy, see-and-be-seen vibe and has established itself as a stylish anchor in the heart of Colonia Roma. Better yet, the food is quite good, specializing in a mix of “Mexicanized” bistro classics and traditional hometown comforts, served in updated presentations. Something like tried-and-true tortilla soup reaches a different level because of fragrant dried chipotle, ripe avocado and other almost artisanal go-alongs; the ceviches would be swimming if they were any fresher. Topnotch tacos and croquetas make good starters for the table; mains range from favorites like the steak tartare (served with just the right bit of picante) to solid robalo fish and snapper, prepared whole, and delicately seasoned à la mexicana. The décor is retro, the crowd chic and we’ve always found the service professional.