Staple & Fancy Mercantile

Staple & Fancy Mercantile Restaurant Review:

An intimate interior blends original brick walls and reclaimed dark woods with contemporary details in a long, narrow room. Most of the 45 seats look into the open kitchen, where Ethan Stowell and his efficient staff create simple but refined Italian-inspired cuisine. There is a brief à la carte menu, but your server will encourage you to order the four-course family-style prix-fixe dinner (everyone at the table must participate). At $50 it's a bargain, but the option may not appeal universally, as Stowell's food often ventures “out of the box,” although it’s always tempting. Should you choose the prix-fixe option, your meal will be a "surprise of multiple small dishes." Starters may be rabbit terrine, fried oysters or a celery root soup graced with a tiny fried duck egg. There's always a pasta selection, such as gnocchi with braised short ribs or tagliarini with cheese broth. Entrées range from pork cheeks with cranberry beans and fennel pollen to chicken with spring vegetables or crisp grilled sardines. Light ricotta cheesecake or a berry tart may arrive as the sweet finale. The wine list is well-chosen, albeit pricey.