Sushi King

Sushi King Restaurant Review:

Housed in the quiet, pleasantly midscale corner of a strip-mall parking lot, the east side branch of Sushi King (there are three other locations) is no temple of true Japanese cuisine. The repertoire of tempura, teriyaki, yakisoba and other old standbys, as well as raw-fish concoctions, resembles that of countless other California-roll hawkers. And that’s okay by us; you can’t live by uni and toro alone. Sometimes, you crave silly stuff like monkey balls: breaded, deep-fried mushrooms stuffed with spicy tuna and drizzled with chile-mayo sauce. Or a Sandia roll, combining three types of fish and shrimp with New Mexican green chile. Or the dynamite, different from the standard casserole-like version in that mixed seafood is piled high and simply drizzled with chile mayo (plus a sprinkling of roe for good measure). A sweet staff contributes to the overall sense of comfort; a little saké doesn’t hurt, either. Dessert is token --- a few types of ice cream --- but since you’re within walking distance of a Flying Star Café, a decent slice of cake is only steps away.