THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Table 8

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Table 8 Restaurant Review:

Though far larger and loungier (down to the trance-dance music played at a volume that, especially later at night, makes dinner conversation difficult), Sobe’s Table 8 has similarities to the L.A. original. The two most important are a menu of unfussy dishes that rely on fresh ingredients and chef Govind Armstrong, who, unlike many celebrity top toques, does spend some time at the restaurant. Unfortunately, it is not enough time to ensure consistency. Ingredient-driven dishes require fine quality control to respect said ingredients, but here the Kurobuta pork or baby chicken may be moist one night, dry the next; the fine line between subtle spicing and blandness is also too often crossed. Additionally, lackadaisical service means that dishes which should be hot often are not. That said, the signature salt-crusted porterhouse (not on the menu, but hardcore carnivores know to order it in advance) is pretty much the ultimate steak. Armstrong’s light touch also nicely highlights local fish in dishes like shallot vinaigrette-sauced pompano with wilted spinach, pancetta, roasted shiitakes and asparagus shavings. And many diners here make a meal of reliably tasty small plates, such as an onion marmalade-garnished sandwich of tender braised short ribs and grilled cheese. The wine list, though not extensive, is thoughtfully chosen, with about a dozen respectable quaffs (reds as well as whites) under $50.