THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Terrine

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Terrine Restaurant Review:

Terrine is not a humdrum eatery, but it's not because of any grandiose décor. In a space stretched in length, this one is rather simple with its white brick walls and semi-antique mirrors. It’s prolonged at one end by a cozy patio shaded by an elegant tree. Owner Stéphane Bombet's restaurant has a unique personality, surfacing in details like unusual --- at least, for a restaurant --- silverware and napkin rings probably meant to make you feel you are home or maybe at your auntie's family dinner if you're seated near the wood-framed mirrors from the early last century. Let's respect tradition but with a tender wink of the eye and a pinch of imagination. This is to ready our palates to appreciate the character of the concoctions prepared by chef Kris Morningstar (formerly of Ray's & Stark Bar). Based on usual and simple products, his discreet tweaking makes them particular to us. Consider the refreshing and delicate crudo of fluke under a colorful cover of watermelon radish as an introduction to the squid ink tagliatelle. In this old Italian recipe, the humble pasta is turned into an unexpected delicacy by its marine companions of bottarga (cured fish roe), squid ink and squid rings, plus the scent of basil. Think you know choucroute? Probably not this one. The major component of sauerkraut is there, but the cabbage is not fully fermented so it still maintains its fresh flavor and modifies the classic pungent taste, resulting in a successful variation. Most of the dishes benefit from such twists and surprise us. Charcuterie, presented on a wood board, is all homemade, as are the two accompanying mustards. Among desserts, the apple and pear galette is a happy variation of the French galette des rois, which can be dull. Skip the uninteresting chocolate cake (called “Birthday Cake” on the menu). The friendly service is in the process of learning how to cope with success. The extensive and expensive wine list covers the entire spectrum of French vineyards, favoring Bourgogne and particularly the Rhone Valley with beautiful bottles from Crozes-Hermitage, Cornas and Côte-Rôtie. There's a good, more affordable selection of wines by the glass like the red Bourgogne of Bader-Mineur. Dine on the patio if you can as the noise inside can be deafening. They say they are fixing that but in the meantime bring your ear plugs.