THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Tony's

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Tony's Restaurant Review:

The younger, hipper wealthy of Houston might dismiss this society dowager, with her hierarchical seating code and her velvety interiors, as high camp. Their senior counterparts, who've made the place a sort of clubhouse for Big Oil's rich and powerful, couldn't give a hoot. They don't see the least bit of irony in Tony's over-the-top luxury: Versace-designed plates, Fortuny-inspired fabrics, Christofle flatware, Riedel wine glasses and silken---if not downright obsequious---service. And really, how many restaurants have actually inspired a women's clothing ensemble? In this case, it's the Tony's Suit, a snug, sparkly little number that's not quite evening wear but too dressy for almost any other restaurant. It goes best with big hair and lots of jewelry. Tony's is definitely a show worth seeing, at least once. The food has always been beside the point but it's actually much better than what the Inner-Loop restaurant snobs, who rarely eat here, might think. The menu is rather short, since the kitchen will create just about anything you ask for (if you're famous, they'll even go out for ingredients). There are some standouts: the robust tuna tartare; the foie gras Bellissima; stuffed veal chops; and a hulking osso buco. Chef Bruce McMillan's risottos are especially luscious.