TRACE

TRACE Restaurant Review:

Native Atlantan Shean Suter understands the basics of Southern food and has the background to take classic dishes to new levels without compromising authenticity. But keeping faith with the TRACE mission, designed to reflect each of its location's regional traditions, he also sources many of his products and even finished fare from local purveyors. Thus, charcuterie comes from The Spotted Trotter, an area establishment. Grits don't get much play here, but Nora Mills in Helen provides what the kitchen uses. House-made pimento cheese is paired with Black Jack Jelly from One Screw Loose, a small-batch maker of jellies. Chicken from Springer Mountain is a standout, as is the poulet rouge from Joyce Farms in North Carolina. Poached shrimp comes with green goddess and has lemon flavors, and we enjoyed the roasted pork loin, cooked just to the pink state and as a result was moist and rich in flavor. The wine list is serviceable, if not exciting, with respectable choices by the glass. Coffee from 1000 Faces in Athens is most worthy.