Traktir

Traktir Restaurant Review:

With its lively and distinctive European atmosphere, Traktir is one of Hollywood’s most authentic Russian restaurants. A charming dining room sports rustic wooden tables and rich red tones, opening onto the spacious patio that may host high-spirited vodka-drinking sessions late into the evenings. Russian expats and trendy WeHo locals stop by from noon until late for authentic and hearty regional Russian fare. Start with the Georgian kharcho soup, a subtly rich lamb and tomato broth with rice, fresh herbs and hunks of tender stewed meat. You can make a meal of several zakuski --- what the menu calls “cold appetizers,” but which are actually quite substantial. Herring “Moskovsky” arrives plump and glistening on pumpernickel toast with pickled onions adding crunch, and finely chopped beet salad is pink and coolly refreshing. Delicate little Russian dumplings called varenyky are filled with meat, cheese or sauerkraut and mushrooms, bathed in a light mushroom cream sauce. The stuffed cabbage here is also lighter than most, and comes three to a plate. House specials are pricier and more continental --- Cornish hen, kebabs, filet mignon and pork chops --- though traditional Russian dishes including grilled sturgeon and beef Stroganoff are featured, too. For dessert, try a pretty Napoleon cake. Daily special flavored vodkas add to the finish.