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L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon

L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon Restaurant Review:

L'Atelier is the shortcut way to access the culinary artistry of the late chef Joël Robuchon. There's no middleman here. We sit at a bar in front of the cook, as if in his own kitchen, eyeballing every detail of the order and how it is fulfilled to satisfy us. Such interactivity in a casual mode between the producer (the cook) and the end user (the diner) is an equitable concept that sustains Robuchon's minimalist gastronomic expression. Perhaps inspired by the sushi bar model (he loved Japan), he launched L'Atelier with much success upon his return to the Paris scene. Formality is off limits. The granite bar encircling the open kitchen seats 33, and a few tables can accommodate an additional 25. The slick, glossy black-and-red décor is the work of world-famous Pierre-Yves Rochon. A slew of cooks, clad in black uniforms, speeds to concoct and deliver the dishes. These reflect Robuchon's quest for perfection and can be ordered à la carte. But the 10-course menu découverte de saison can be a better alternative at a more reasonable price (at least in Robuchon's sphere). It starts with foie gras parfait with port wine and Parmesan foam; this may be followed by sea scallop cooked in the shell with chive oil, langoustine a la plancha with green curry and cilantro, and quail stuffed with foie gras served with Robuchon's famous truffled potato purée. Two desserts conclude the meal --- lychee mousse on a thin blackcurrant tuile, and spiced chocolate “cremeux” on sage crumbles with ginger ice cream. The entire performance is impeccable. The wine list includes some affordable bottles and covers the globe.